The pattern I'm using for my dress has large curvy princess seam "darts" that end up being trimmed down to regular seam allowance after stitching. Since I custom fit the pattern using the foundation I made first, mine are curvier than what was originally drafted.
The handbasting of the marked lining layer to the outer fabric layer makes it easier to sew them. (I did reinforce the handbasting with machine stitches inside the darts knowing I wanted a line of stitching to keep any possible fraying of the cut edges from getting too close to the actual seam.)
Since my altered pattern had been traced onto thicker paper with seam allowances removed, I cut the stitchlines of the darts on the paper to make tracing onto the fabric easier. I used a white Prismacolor pencil (chalk would never last long enough with handling).
I always sew darts by matching ends and any middle notches and then weaving pins through marks on both sides of the dart. Then I hold each pin in place as it gets close to the presser foot and allow the machine to pull the fabric off the pin. It allows for a lot of extra control and precision, and if I've pinned properly, I stitch perfectly through the lines on both sides.
Tomorrow when I have better lighting, I'll press everything open and cross-stitch the seam allowances to the inside layer of fabric to control the puffy tendency of this fabric.
#Butterick4731
I spent the day priming things for paint and then I remembered to shoot a quick video. #SewingStudioBuild
I started cutting all the edges while Janet was away yesterday morning. When she got back after lunch, she pulled out a roller and started filling in. I'll put a pic below in the comments. #SewingStudioBuild
We broke for lunch and then came back with a portal ac unit plugged in to an extention cord from the house. Can't wait until they finished hooking up all the electrical and we have the mini split cooling the room for us - it was stupid humid today! #SewingStudioBuild
Why do you have to be so pretty, brocade? I love you, but you are so fussy to work with!
#derbydress
I made a rub-off dress... the only change I made was to increase the width of the waistband from 2" to 3", which I am more-or-less satisfied with. I'd do a few things, construction-wise, differently next time, but this is an easy, comfortable dress.
The original is from Talbots.
It’s been awhile since I’ve had something to show, but I’m finally getting the pictures up! Both of these were from the Paloma pattern in the Itch to Stitch “Sew Beautiful” book. I did the top first to test the pattern, and tried to add some length to the sleeves, since 3/4 length only works here about 3 to 4 days of the year! I apparently underestimated the length I needed to add, but I had to cut crosswise even to add this much, so I couldn’t have done more.
For the dress, I did add more sleeve length (slightly overestimated this time). I also added ties to the neck and pockets, though in retrospect, I probably should have put them in higher. Based on the shirt, I’d thought putting them in the top part would be too high. So I inserted them in the first ruffle layer and it is maybe a bit too low.
Overall, though, I think this was a worthwhile pattern to play with.
