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Dart sewing

The pattern I'm using for my dress has large curvy princess seam "darts" that end up being trimmed down to regular seam allowance after stitching. Since I custom fit the pattern using the foundation I made first, mine are curvier than what was originally drafted.

The handbasting of the marked lining layer to the outer fabric layer makes it easier to sew them. (I did reinforce the handbasting with machine stitches inside the darts knowing I wanted a line of stitching to keep any possible fraying of the cut edges from getting too close to the actual seam.)

Since my altered pattern had been traced onto thicker paper with seam allowances removed, I cut the stitchlines of the darts on the paper to make tracing onto the fabric easier. I used a white Prismacolor pencil (chalk would never last long enough with handling).

I always sew darts by matching ends and any middle notches and then weaving pins through marks on both sides of the dart. Then I hold each pin in place as it gets close to the presser foot and allow the machine to pull the fabric off the pin. It allows for a lot of extra control and precision, and if I've pinned properly, I stitch perfectly through the lines on both sides.

Tomorrow when I have better lighting, I'll press everything open and cross-stitch the seam allowances to the inside layer of fabric to control the puffy tendency of this fabric.

#Butterick4731

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November 15, 2025

I keep meaning to cut something new out to sew, and keep not having time. But in the meantime, I thought I’d show something I started several weeks ago. About two years ago, a geography project that was in our curriculum was to create an embroidery design, the unit was on Ukraine and this had to do with traditional embroidered garments. So my oldest made this design, and asked if I’d use it in my own sewing sometime. I had to sit on this one for awhile to plot what to do, but I finally started it. Last year’s ice dyeing had this leftover sweatshirt fleece from some shirts I made when the boys were younger, but it only dyed on the back side. So I’m using reverse embroidery to put his design on the front piece of this sweatshirt, so I can also use that piece of fabric in a way that won’t look like my clothes are inside out. I also have a back yoke piece cut, but I’m only getting to work on this around once a week right now, so I’ll need to either speed this up or drop that ...

November 09, 2025

I just need to vent. I was hemming some jeans today and one leg was perfect. Did it in one try. The other? It took 4 times of sewing and picking it out! I’m done now but that was such a pain. I hate stretch denim so much. Can anyone else relate?

Curvy stripes!

Almost time to start quilting panels for my jacket pieces. I have one more front section to piece and I need to lengthen the hood pattern (why does everyone always draft hoods too short?) and then I can make "sandwiches."

I took this photo before I stitched a strip of background fabric to each side of the stripes so that the pattern piece of the jacket back is completely covered.

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