The Sewing Sphere
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Dart sewing

The pattern I'm using for my dress has large curvy princess seam "darts" that end up being trimmed down to regular seam allowance after stitching. Since I custom fit the pattern using the foundation I made first, mine are curvier than what was originally drafted.

The handbasting of the marked lining layer to the outer fabric layer makes it easier to sew them. (I did reinforce the handbasting with machine stitches inside the darts knowing I wanted a line of stitching to keep any possible fraying of the cut edges from getting too close to the actual seam.)

Since my altered pattern had been traced onto thicker paper with seam allowances removed, I cut the stitchlines of the darts on the paper to make tracing onto the fabric easier. I used a white Prismacolor pencil (chalk would never last long enough with handling).

I always sew darts by matching ends and any middle notches and then weaving pins through marks on both sides of the dart. Then I hold each pin in place as it gets close to the presser foot and allow the machine to pull the fabric off the pin. It allows for a lot of extra control and precision, and if I've pinned properly, I stitch perfectly through the lines on both sides.

Tomorrow when I have better lighting, I'll press everything open and cross-stitch the seam allowances to the inside layer of fabric to control the puffy tendency of this fabric.

#Butterick4731

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Videos
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Studio video tour!

I spent the day priming things for paint and then I remembered to shoot a quick video. #SewingStudioBuild

00:03:06
Paint!

I started cutting all the edges while Janet was away yesterday morning. When she got back after lunch, she pulled out a roller and started filling in. I'll put a pic below in the comments. #SewingStudioBuild

00:02:15
Time-lapse floor install (part 2)

We broke for lunch and then came back with a portal ac unit plugged in to an extention cord from the house. Can't wait until they finished hooking up all the electrical and we have the mini split cooling the room for us - it was stupid humid today! #SewingStudioBuild

00:03:11
It's a puppy!

Tonight I learned how to do foundation paper piecing (fpp) without sewing through the paper. I've never had any desire to sew through the paper and then have to rip it all off. This was much faster with no ripping required in the end!

I plan to make this Jack Russell Terrier block into a decorative pillow.

#FoundationPaperPiecing #fpp

Beginnings of a Derby Dress

A client I made a cosplay for a few years ago won tickets to The Kentucky Derby in May and commissioned me to make her outfit! This is going to be a fun build!

Her inspiration is from a dress in Singin' in the Rain, and I found a good starting point pattern to use from Mrs. Depew Patterns that has a similar vibe. It's a repo of a 1920s evening gown.

I printed her size and taped it together this afternoon. It isn't the cleanest draft (lots of pointy curves), but it seems decent enough and I can clean it up. I'll start on a mockup in a few days.

#derbydress

February 14, 2026

Making lingerie out of scraps again. This is a scrap of Liberty of London lawn (left over from a blouse) and some lingerie lace I bought on Etsy (where it is extremely affordable and available in an nearly-infinite variety of styles/colors). I went with a band of sheer ribbon and matching straps.

This is a pattern I rubbed off a bought nightgown.

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