The Sewing Sphere
Art • Beauty & Fashion
Escape the algorithms. Enjoy old-fashioned chronological feed order. And hang out with sewing friends in The Sewing Sphere!
Interested? Want to learn more about the community?
How I hemmed a fabric that doesn't like to be hemmed

The fabric I used for my dress is weird. It has a lovely weighty drape, but because of the shiny plastic grain (which is also sheer) with the cross-grain black thread, it does not like to fold or keep a crisp press.

The flounce at the bottom is very curved at the bottom edge, especially in the back. So I knew it was going to fight me for a nice hem. I tried samples of double fold (it was ugly as expected) and even serged edge with single fold. Neither was pretty. A rolled hem on the serger was out of the question.

The pattern instructions said to hem the outer flounce and the lining flounce separately. While that would be pretty in a fabric like chiffon, it would have been double the frustration in this fabric and I didn't want the lining to be a different fabric.

So I decided to bag-out the hem, and then attach the flounce. In some ways, this probably simplified the alterations as I was able to make all the adjustments from the top without having to redo the hem or spend lots of time leveling anything up from the floor.

I used pinking sheers to trim the bottom edge after sewing the two layers of fabric together. Pinking the edge both "clips the curve" and keeps anything from fraying away without the added bulk of serging. Then I understitched the seam allowance to the lining side just beside the seam. This fabric needed to be controlled as much as possible.

I had to steam press really well and use the clapper on the bottom of my point presser to make it lay flat. Once I had forced it into submission, I lined up the vertical seams (sides and center back) and stitched-in-the-ditch to keep the open seam allowances from rolling around between the layers and getting puffy again.

I basted the top edge and trimmed any areas of overhang from the lining side. And then I attached it to the dress as one piece.

(fyi, this is also how I hemmed the sleeves of the shrug.)

#Butterick4731

Interested? Want to learn more about the community?
What else you may like…
Videos
Posts
Studio video tour!

I spent the day priming things for paint and then I remembered to shoot a quick video. #SewingStudioBuild

00:03:06
Paint!

I started cutting all the edges while Janet was away yesterday morning. When she got back after lunch, she pulled out a roller and started filling in. I'll put a pic below in the comments. #SewingStudioBuild

00:02:15
Time-lapse floor install (part 2)

We broke for lunch and then came back with a portal ac unit plugged in to an extention cord from the house. Can't wait until they finished hooking up all the electrical and we have the mini split cooling the room for us - it was stupid humid today! #SewingStudioBuild

00:03:11
Trying Some EPP

Not bad for a first attempt at English paper piecing. I deliberately used a contrast thread so I could see if I needed to do anything differently.

I have a crazy idea in mind and this was just a test sample. It's going to take forever, but this should be the perfect mindless project to keep my hands busy when I'm listening to podcasts with my husband at night.

Triangle is 4" equilateral.

#epp

Please appreciate this with me!

My husband sent me a "funny clothes" compilation video, and I actually kind of like this one, lol! I'm trying to wrap my head around exactly how to construct this so you could still turn everything! It looks simple but it's actually really complex!

I don't think it has any seams - looks like one giant circle. But to clean finish those holes, you'd have to sew them in steps with some burrito action. Definitely have to sew one and then the other.

I might have to make a half scale version to see if I can.

Happy Independence Day!

I made a patriotic 18th Century style skirt for and indie film maker to wear to her documentary premiere. Unfortunately, it has been delayed (she and her husband are still working on the final edit) and won't be out today as originally planned, but she'll have a skirt whenever it comes out later this year!

In true historical style, the skirt back ties around the waist and then the front ties around the back. This creates side openings that allow access to any pockets worn underneath. Modern women are always complaining about small or no pockets - they used to be separate accessories and as big as you wanted! (Example photos of me modeling it over my jeans at work because my coworkers wanted to see it.)

I couldn't help myself and matched the stars on the seams and even managed to hide horizontal tucks on the bottom layer that don't interrupt the stars (it's two layers of skirt). It can be worn with or without a petticoat, and the top layer can be draped with loops of red ribbon I stitched ...

See More
Available on mobile and TV devices
google store google store app store app store
google store google store app tv store app tv store amazon store amazon store roku store roku store
Powered by Locals