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How I hemmed a fabric that doesn't like to be hemmed

The fabric I used for my dress is weird. It has a lovely weighty drape, but because of the shiny plastic grain (which is also sheer) with the cross-grain black thread, it does not like to fold or keep a crisp press.

The flounce at the bottom is very curved at the bottom edge, especially in the back. So I knew it was going to fight me for a nice hem. I tried samples of double fold (it was ugly as expected) and even serged edge with single fold. Neither was pretty. A rolled hem on the serger was out of the question.

The pattern instructions said to hem the outer flounce and the lining flounce separately. While that would be pretty in a fabric like chiffon, it would have been double the frustration in this fabric and I didn't want the lining to be a different fabric.

So I decided to bag-out the hem, and then attach the flounce. In some ways, this probably simplified the alterations as I was able to make all the adjustments from the top without having to redo the hem or spend lots of time leveling anything up from the floor.

I used pinking sheers to trim the bottom edge after sewing the two layers of fabric together. Pinking the edge both "clips the curve" and keeps anything from fraying away without the added bulk of serging. Then I understitched the seam allowance to the lining side just beside the seam. This fabric needed to be controlled as much as possible.

I had to steam press really well and use the clapper on the bottom of my point presser to make it lay flat. Once I had forced it into submission, I lined up the vertical seams (sides and center back) and stitched-in-the-ditch to keep the open seam allowances from rolling around between the layers and getting puffy again.

I basted the top edge and trimmed any areas of overhang from the lining side. And then I attached it to the dress as one piece.

(fyi, this is also how I hemmed the sleeves of the shrug.)

#Butterick4731

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Just one more sleep 'til Christmas!

Merry Christmas, everyone!

If you're looking for something Christmasy to listen to/watch over the next few days, here's the most recent episode of my favorite podcast Blurry Creatures. It's a really fascinating (and nerdy) deep dive into the Biblical story of the Magi.

December 10, 2025

Two days after my son turned in his last paper for his bachelor's degree, I finished my shirt sewing project. Eight shirts, made to measure. Most of the fabrics are linen. Yes, regrettably you can tell exactly when I got my sewing machine repaired... but I hope these help him as he moves through his master's program and in life.

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November 28, 2025

We had a very quiet Thanksgiving, and I'm doing palate cleansers between the shirts in my shirt gift project, so I ran through the scrap pile and made myself an apron.

Aprons, IME, should be made of thicker fabrics in order to actually prevent splashes and stains from getting to your real clothes. Both of these were skirt leftover bits :)

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