The Sewing Sphere
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Moving an alteration to another seam

I've spent the majority of this week altering strapless bodice foundations based on pinning from fittings and then adjusting the paper patterns so I can cut outer fabric (with necessary ease added).

One thing I like to do is keep the center back seams as straight as possible to prevent issues with zippers and to keep the princess lines from getting tilted or shifted too close to center (it can look a little imbalanced when everything is too close together).

So here's a quick guide to moving a fitting alteration to another seam:

You can see all my stitch-lines marked on the fabric and my cleaned up pin line from fitting.

I moved the same curved line over to the side panel on the princess seam.

Then I popped all the stitches to separate the pieces and repinned new curved line to original center back panel stitchline.

I pinned at top and bottom and worked in to the center, weaving the pins a few times each. Basically, basting with pins to make sure everything was perfectly lined up before nailing it in place by machine.

You can see I checked to make sure I was right on the straight stitchline on the backside and the seam allowance edges are uneven (pic 5).

And after pinning, I held each pin in place and let the machine pull them out as I stitched so nothing shifted out of alignment (last photo).

#alterations #sewingtips

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The fabric I hate to love!

Why do you have to be so pretty, brocade? I love you, but you are so fussy to work with!

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post photo preview

I made a rub-off dress... the only change I made was to increase the width of the waistband from 2" to 3", which I am more-or-less satisfied with. I'd do a few things, construction-wise, differently next time, but this is an easy, comfortable dress.

The original is from Talbots.

post photo preview

It’s been awhile since I’ve had something to show, but I’m finally getting the pictures up! Both of these were from the Paloma pattern in the Itch to Stitch “Sew Beautiful” book. I did the top first to test the pattern, and tried to add some length to the sleeves, since 3/4 length only works here about 3 to 4 days of the year! I apparently underestimated the length I needed to add, but I had to cut crosswise even to add this much, so I couldn’t have done more.

For the dress, I did add more sleeve length (slightly overestimated this time). I also added ties to the neck and pockets, though in retrospect, I probably should have put them in higher. Based on the shirt, I’d thought putting them in the top part would be too high. So I inserted them in the first ruffle layer and it is maybe a bit too low.
Overall, though, I think this was a worthwhile pattern to play with.

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