This is one of those issues in the film/television world that I have mixed feelings about. (I could probably do a rant video about it, but I doubt anyone really wants to see that.) The article wants people to believe it's all about sexism, but it has nothing to do with being a woman - there are plenty of men who design clothing (but they do seem to gravitate more to theatre & fashion). It's simply about being an artist working under the umbrella of a film production, and costume designers are in the weird & unusual position of being upper level yet crew at the same time since their work is so intertwined with the stars on screen.

On one hand, it really stinks for a costume designer not to be included in the merchandise and fashion lines based on their designs. Costume designers never get the protections that fashion designers get because producers and everyone above the line (which means name and position typed "above the Line Producer" on a production call sheet) think they own anything and everything created for a movie since they're the investors of the production.

But on the other hand, it's major hypocrisy because most designers treat the costume teams that physically build their designs the same way - we are the invisible worker-bees who don't get credit and are told the designer owns our work. I know a designer who thinks those of us who actually build the costumes shouldn't be allowed to share photos of our work behind the scenes (like a close up of my hand-stitches or a even a pretty button) because only the designer owns the rights to those photos, even if it's just an old stock costume.

Anyone who works in a creative position is used to working multiple jobs from multiple angles and to try to make money however they can. The higher-ups in film production tend to have more stable employment and a much larger hiring pool to pull from (it's more corporate), but the skilled positions are much more niche and less permanent/long-term. Most crew are freelancers.

No one ever bothers to mention the existence of the no-name designers who create the fashion line based on the movie costumes designed by the well-known costume designer. So why do some people think they deserve so much more credit and name recognition anyway?

It all boils down to people who don't have skills wanting to make money off those who do. And in the creative fields where so much of it is art, it somehow seems extra unfair.

#lifeasacostumer

https://variety.com/2021/artisans/global/cruella-costume-designers-licensing-disney-jenny-beavan-1234986629/