The Sewing Sphere
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Costume Designer not included in merchandising deal

This is one of those issues in the film/television world that I have mixed feelings about. (I could probably do a rant video about it, but I doubt anyone really wants to see that.) The article wants people to believe it's all about sexism, but it has nothing to do with being a woman - there are plenty of men who design clothing (but they do seem to gravitate more to theatre & fashion). It's simply about being an artist working under the umbrella of a film production, and costume designers are in the weird & unusual position of being upper level yet crew at the same time since their work is so intertwined with the stars on screen.

On one hand, it really stinks for a costume designer not to be included in the merchandise and fashion lines based on their designs. Costume designers never get the protections that fashion designers get because producers and everyone above the line (which means name and position typed "above the Line Producer" on a production call sheet) think they own anything and everything created for a movie since they're the investors of the production.

But on the other hand, it's major hypocrisy because most designers treat the costume teams that physically build their designs the same way - we are the invisible worker-bees who don't get credit and are told the designer owns our work. I know a designer who thinks those of us who actually build the costumes shouldn't be allowed to share photos of our work behind the scenes (like a close up of my hand-stitches or a even a pretty button) because only the designer owns the rights to those photos, even if it's just an old stock costume.

Anyone who works in a creative position is used to working multiple jobs from multiple angles and to try to make money however they can. The higher-ups in film production tend to have more stable employment and a much larger hiring pool to pull from (it's more corporate), but the skilled positions are much more niche and less permanent/long-term. Most crew are freelancers.

No one ever bothers to mention the existence of the no-name designers who create the fashion line based on the movie costumes designed by the well-known costume designer. So why do some people think they deserve so much more credit and name recognition anyway?

It all boils down to people who don't have skills wanting to make money off those who do. And in the creative fields where so much of it is art, it somehow seems extra unfair.

#lifeasacostumer

https://variety.com/2021/artisans/global/cruella-costume-designers-licensing-disney-jenny-beavan-1234986629/

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Studio video tour!

I spent the day priming things for paint and then I remembered to shoot a quick video. #SewingStudioBuild

00:03:06
Paint!

I started cutting all the edges while Janet was away yesterday morning. When she got back after lunch, she pulled out a roller and started filling in. I'll put a pic below in the comments. #SewingStudioBuild

00:02:15
Time-lapse floor install (part 2)

We broke for lunch and then came back with a portal ac unit plugged in to an extention cord from the house. Can't wait until they finished hooking up all the electrical and we have the mini split cooling the room for us - it was stupid humid today! #SewingStudioBuild

00:03:11
Ruffle tail

I draped a really rough half-scale ruffle tail for one of the debutant dresses Janet & I are making. I just eyeballed and freehand cut a scrap of (un-ironed) muslin in a spiral and pinned it to my little dress form to make sure it was long enough to reach from hem to waist. Then I marked the folds and traced it onto graph paper and cleaned it up. The graph paper makes it easier to copy at 200% and tape the pieces back together.

I'll transfer the enlarged frankenstein paper pattern to brown paper when I'm back at the studio tomorrow or Friday and then make it out of the real fabric.

#ruffle #fiestabuild

February 14, 2025

I made 2 of these valentine garlands. Found the tutorial via Instagram and thought it would be perfect to send to Ashley, my daughter in Oregon, and Madison, my birth daughter in North Carolina.
Pics are from Ashley.

What I did at work today

My hand hurts! I spent all day trimming net away from embroidery and weeding out sections that were too dense for what I need this fabric to do.

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